TSO_Products said:
[member=]Nailed IT[/member] - welcome back to the hobby with the smart move to post this question on the FOG rather than reinvent the wheel.
It would probly help readers to provide relevant advice if you posted what tools you already have available and whether you want to be a hybrid woodworker or focusing on hand tools.
Also help to know whether this particular project is a one-time only or you are likely to work with more rough sawn hardwoods ongoing/
Hans
Sorry, for being vague. I currently utilize space in my garage. I try to keep all my tools on wheels so I can rearrange the puzzle that is my workspace so I have room to work. I built a 4x8 version of the Ron Paulk work bench that is on casters. The table has mounting for my DeWalt portable table saw. Other tools I have: Sliding compound miter saw, regular miter saw, TS 55, circular saws, hand held routers including an OF , small table top router table, RO sanders including an RO 90, Delta band saw, drill press, Domino 500, CT 26 and shop vac, and a large format scroll saw. I have other hand tools obviously as well as drills etc.
What I do not have: Planer/planing capability (either hand or machine), jointer.
My preference would be to have a mobile capability (on wheels) to flatten and square boards. I would not mind developing hand planing skills, but I am really short on time at the moment and would like to focus on prepping some wood for some small projects and being able to utilize some of the other tools I have mentioned that have sat for so long.
My current wood supplier offers jointing one edge and two sided face planing. It is better than nothing but they are 40 mins away one way and I would like to have the capability of controlling thickness on site other than just sanding. I purchased the poplar I have as an inexpensive material to enjoy and build some skills and projects with. I would definitely like to try some other hardwoods as I progress.
I have looked at the DeWalt 735 and it has a stand with wheels. Small and mobile are definitely a plus. Table top jointers? Are they any good? Well, this is why I am here asking. I have read this forum for many years and this group has some brilliant minds and a lot of varied experience from all over the world. I am open to suggestions.
If I have left anything out let me know. I am mid-fifties retired raising a two year old son so my mind isn't what it once was!!
I would definitely second the 735 suggestion. I bought the planer second hand in a package with the stand, but found the stand not to be that great in terms of storage and mobility maximization (like you, I run my shop out of the garage), so I built my own mobile cabinet and added a folding extension table for longer boards. You can also add a Shelix cutterhead, which produces a much superior finish, vastly extends the life of the cutters, and lowers the noise level to that of other woodworking machines, as opposed to the awful caterwaul the planer normally produces with the stock knives.
Since you have a track saw, you have the ability to rip a straight edge, so all we're talking about is whether you also need a jointer for achieving a flat face on the board.
Keep in mind that a planer can double as a jointer if you build a planer sled.
I have never owned a jointer, but don't suffer in any way as a result, and I build the vast majority of the time starting from rough lumber -- I guess I spend a bit more time on the front end dressing the wood, but that's it. Mainly I work by hand to joint with either a scrub or fore/jack plane. It actually doesn't take a great deal of skill to joint a board by this method -- you just need to get one side reasonably (but not perfectly) even, and then you can send it through the planer to establish a truly flat reference surface on the other side.
When doing a lot of longer boards, you can set up a router sled. I work now with the Woodpeckers slab milling jig, which can be put away and compactly stored when not in use. It's not cheap, but they now have an intermediate version specifically for jointing boards. But it's a relatively simple matter to build your own version.
I can't comment on the functionality of smaller bench top jointers, but I feel like it would not be worth it if you plan on working regularly with wider or longer boards.
I have an older Delta 6" jointer with a 48" bed that's a joy to use. However it's always buried under and behind many items and it's a PITA to pull it out. I decided to purchase the Festool HL 850 planer with a bench stand for those fairly short 3'-4' pieces of wood. After being jointed, I'd run them through the Dewalt 735 planer with the Byrd Shelix head, that seemed simple. [big grin]
Man was I ever disappointed with the results of the Festool planer when used as a jointer. It's cute and it doesn't take up a lot of room but that's where the positives end. The 14" long bed is just too short for any lumber longer than about 12"-18". The fence also has a little movement in it so the jointing will never be at a true 90º.
I'll keep it and use it as a hand planer but as a bench mounted tool it's almost useless. Unfortunately I have a feeling that other small bench mounted jointers will give you the same results.
I'd consider jointing with your TS 55 and then purchasing a Dewalt 735 for planing. Dewalt makes a mobile stand for it as it's very heavy and the table extensions fold up for a smaller storage profile. There's also a shelf under the stand for storage of items.
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Thanks for all the replies!! I have been doing some research on all the suggested options and learned a lot. They have certainly suggested that I really clarify my future goals, since all of them require their own committement.
[member=]grbmds[/member], [member=]ear3[/member], [member=]Cheese[/member] It seems the DeWalt 735 is a winner especially if you replace the cutter with an aftermarket helical cutter. I have seen the Byrd Shelix and the Lux Cut III. Comparisons I have seen seem to indicate that the Lux Cut may have a few improvements over the Shelix. Has anyone had any experience with the Lux Cut?
I have really given up on the idea of a bench jointer. It doesn't seem practical or worthwhile. Other options using a planer/router seem like much better options for me. I really love the cart you made [member=]ear3[/member]! The stands for the mobile table saw and compound miter saw were heavy and a pita as [member=]Cheese[/member] so rightly points out.
Also, I am looking into a hand plane as well. I don't know that it is really avoidable to not have the option and the skill. Thanks [member=]Birdhunter[/member] & [member=]derekcohen[/member].
Again, I really appreciate all the suggestions and welcome any other comments. They all really help me think through the process.
Bill
[member=]Nailed IT[/member] The 735 is a great planet even as it comes off the shelf without the upgrade to the Shelix cutter head. I’ve used mine as I bought it, with the factory head and HSS knives. Since I own a jointer with a helical head I know that this gives great results. However equipping the 735 with a helical head is expensive and, unless you have some planet machine knowledge, difficult to do on your own. I get great results with high speed steel knives. I’ve also had success honing these knives. You can either make or buy a jig for this.
Whether the upgrade to the Shelix head is worth the cost depends on your use. In my case mine is now pshing 15 years old and it’s just not worth it, especially when I continue to get great results as is. If I bought a new one I would consider it but would probably pay someone locally to do the upgrade so I could spend the time woodworking.
Nailed IT said:
I ordered the 735x with cart with some piping and a bag. It is not the end all solution dust collection-wise but will allow me to plane the boards I have right now while I look at something more elaborate. Looking forward to putting some tools to work and making some sawdust!
Bill, I'd suggest that when you start using the planer that you index the cutting depth in very small increments. The Dewalt factory blades are pretty soft and they are easily damaged. If you start to see lines/grooves in the planed surface then you'll know the blade has been damaged. To help alleviate the issue, slightly move each planer blade in a different direction and hopefully that will eliminate the grooving for a short while.
The softness and short longevity of the standard Dewalt straight blades is the reason many opt for the other blade options that are out there.
There are carbide blades available for around $250 and then the Shelix is around $450. The nice thing about the Shelix option is that it also reduces the noise by about 10 db, that's huge. The 735 will literally SCREAM at you and it becomes incredibly obnoxious. The Shelix solves that issue. [smile]
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