Your cosmetics and soaps are probably doing more harm than good. Clean, safe, fragrance-free, sulfate-free—no matter what the label claims, store shelves are loaded with beauty and hygiene products containing seriously harmful chemicals.
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Broadly known as chemicals of concern and, more specifically, endocrine disrupting chemicals, these chemicals disrupt the body’s normal functions and may increase your risk of cancer, says Adana Llanos, PhD, MPH, associate professor of epidemiology at Columbia University’s Mailman School of Public Health and an expert in chemical and environmental risk factors for cancer.
Llanos was studying the connection between breast cancer risk and hair dyes and chemical relaxers when she realized the scale of the issue, particularly in the United States where hundreds of chemicals banned from consumer products in other countries are allowed.
“We use a lot of different products every single day, not just on our hair. Toothpaste, moisturizers, sunscreen, deodorant, the list goes on. We put these products on our bodies. And many of them contain toxic chemicals,” says Llanos.
Other people in our homes, including children, use them too. “Products that could be toxic or harmful to us are more severe to children because they’re still developing,” says Llanos.
Scientific evidence from Llanos's work contributed to the Modernization of Cosmetics Regulations Act of , signed into law by President Biden at the end of December. The law increases oversight by the Food and Drug Administration so consumers will know exactly what's in each cosmetic and personal care product available and if it’s safe to use.
We asked Llanos about what’s known about endocrine disrupters and health and how to find body care products that contain safer ingredients while we wait for the law to take effect. Here’s what she said.
What’s the problem with endocrine-disrupting chemicals?
Our hormones, collectively known as our endocrine system, impact everything in our bodies. Disruption can change your body and your health. Even exposures to small amounts of endocrine-disrupting chemicals over time can lead to problems, including issues with childhood development and onset of attention-deficit/hyperactivity disorder, and development of tumors, including cancer.
Endocrine disruptors have been linked to increased risk of diabetes and other metabolic disorders, early start of puberty, issues with fertility and reproduction, and more.
Are hair and body care products linked to disease?
My team and I are studying the relationship between chemicals in products marketed to Black women and health issues that disproportionately affect Black women to determine whether health disparities are connected to exposure to these chemicals.
As scientists, we’re cautious about claiming proof until we have multiple and large studies, but our smaller studies suggest we are onto something. With breast cancer especially, there is evidence that longer duration of hair dye and relaxer use is related to more aggressive tumors in Black women.
Now we're diving more into specific products to understand what their ingredients do to human cells.
We’re also determining if products predominantly used by certain groups are more likely to contain chemicals of concern. Again, preliminary studies show we are onto something: A lot of the products marketed to Black women are among the most toxic on the market.
As we continue our research we'll have more definitive answers.
For now, be aware: A product available in a store may contain harmful and toxic chemicals. This is one reason I’m a scientific adviser on the Non-Toxic Black Beauty Project, led by the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics. This resource contains easy-to-understand information about chemicals to avoid as much as possible and why, including health conditions they’re linked to. The project also highlights Black-owned businesses that make safer, non-toxic products.
How can we find cosmetics, hair and beauty products, and soap without these chemicals?
With a bit of research, you can find great products that will not harm you.
Be aware that products that claim to be “clean” may not be. Manufacturers can say “clean” on product labels like they can say “healthy” for food or supplements. There’s no legal definition, and until now no oversight and no FDA regulation.
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Over time, as companies that make personal care products adhere to new rules, they will be registered with the FDA, report adverse effects their products cause, prove the safety of their products, declare all ingredients, and, ideally, stop using banned and restricted chemicals. Until then, you must do the work yourself to find products free of toxic chemicals.
At a minimum, look for:
- Phthalate-free (phthalates may be listed as DEP, DBP, or DEHP)
- Paraben-free
- Sulfate-free
- Fragrance-free
- Until the new law changes things, beware of the term “fragrance” on personal care products if the label does not provide a complete ingredient list. Manufacturers are not required to list the ingredients used to create fragrance. Products that do not disclose their full list of fragrance ingredients can include toxic chemicals. Look for products that are transparent with their full ingredient list.
Bottom line: The existence of toxic chemicals in most body care products does not mean you can never use lotion or deodorant or make up or get your hair done. It means do as much as possible to try to make safe choices to reduce those exposures.
What are Cosmetics?
Cosmetics—an umbrella term for many beauty, skin, and self-care products—are used by American households every day. Makeup, sunscreen, shampoo, conditioner, deodorant, perfume, and more are produced using a mixture of chemicals derived from natural or synthetically created sources.
Why are Chemicals Used in Cosmetics?
From preserving the product and adding fragrance, to making the product feel smooth and silky, there are many uses for chemicals in personal care products.
Keeping Cosmetics Safe and Clean
Preservatives in cosmetics are used to help prevent contamination and the growth of harmful bacteria. Some common preservatives include:
Preservatives
- Parabens are a group of preservative ingredients used in cosmetics, personal hygiene products, food products, and pharmaceuticals. They are highly effective in preventing the growth of fungi, bacteria, and yeast that can cause products to spoil, helping to extend shelf life. Parabens used in cosmetics are identical to those found in nature1 and have been used for almost 100 years as preservatives in the food, drug, and personal care and cosmetics industries.
- Formaldehyde may be best known for its preservative and anti-bacterial properties. All life forms–bacteria, plants, fish, animals and humans–naturally produce formaldehyde as part of cell metabolism. Formaldehyde-based chemistry is essential in the production of many personal care2 and consumer items. While not added directly to the product, many products may contain formaldehyde-releasing ingredients, which act as a preservative to help kill microorganisms and prevent growth of bacteria and other pathogens, extending product shelf life.
Plastics
Plastics are used in the packaging of cosmetics, helping to protect and preserve the products.
Enhancing Your Scent
Fragrances
Fragrances are complex combinations of natural or synthetic substances added to many consumer products to give them a distinct scent. One of the oldest cosmetics, fragrance products combine fragrance ingredients with an individual’s natural properties to enhance the body’s scent. Cosmetics like shampoos, shower gels, shaving creams and body lotions contain fragrance intended to improve the user’s experience.
Aldehydes
Aldehydes are fragrant chemical compounds derived from organic materials, including rose, citronella, vanilla, and orange rind. Scientists also can create these compounds synthetically to use as ingredients for sweet-smelling perfumes and colognes.
Enhancing Product Pigment or Color
Titanium Dioxide
Titanium dioxide is a metal commonly found in plants and animals. Titanium dioxide has been used for a century in a range of industrial and consumer products like cosmetics, toothpaste, soap, and sunscreen.
Making Your Skin Feel Softer, Smoother, and Brighter
Emollients
Emollients3 are used to make cosmetics smooth and easy to apply and make the skin feel softer and smoother. They are often used to treat dry, itchy skin conditions such as eczema and psoriasis. By filling in the gaps between skin cells, emollients are also called barrier creams because they form a film on the skin’s outer layer to retain moisture and help prevent the skin from drying out. Emollients are found in creams, lotions, ointments, and sprays. Some common emollients include:
- Mineral oil is a clear, odorless liquid and a common ingredient in a variety of cosmetics and personal care products. Mineral oil is a lightweight ingredient used in baby lotions, cold creams, ointments and many other cosmetic and personal care products, due to its ability to help reduce water loss from skin and keep it moisturized.
- Petroleum jelly4 is a thick, colorless or pale-yellow semisolid found in personal care and cosmetics products, including bath products, cleansing products, skin care products, makeup, shampoos, conditioners, and shaving products.
- Glycerin, or glycerol, is a sugar alcohol with a variety of applications in pharmaceuticals, personal care products, and food products. It is added to personal care products to help protect the skin from irritants and bring moisture to the surface of skin and hair.
Citric Acid
Citric acid is used in cosmetics and personal care products to help brighten skin, correct dark spots and minimize fine lines. It can also be used to as preservative and to help adjust the products’ pH levels.
Protecting Your Skin from the Sun
Sunscreens are used to help protect the skin from the sun’s harmful UV rays. Common sunscreen ingredients include:
- Benzophenone is used in skincare products like soap and lip balm to help prevent the other product ingredients from degrading under UV light – protecting the product’s color and scent.
- Oxybenzone is a derivative of benzophenone, and is an ingredient in many sunscreens due to its ability to absorb harmful UV rays.
- Zinc oxide is a white, powdery mineral that can help block harmful UV rays from the skin and prevent sunburn.
Cleansing, Lathering, and Dissolving Other Substances
Surfactants
Surfactants make it possible for soap to mix with water by lowering the water surface tension. Surfactants also are used as an ingredient in lubricants, such as shaving cream, where they allow razors to easily remove stubble and help limit irritation.
- Sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), a cleaning agent and surfactant, is an ingredient in many personal care and cleaning products. SLS can be derived from natural sources like coconut oil and palm kernel oil and can also be manufactured in a laboratory setting.
Toluene
Toluene, also known as methylbenzene, is a clear, colorless liquid with a distinctive sweet smell that is widely used in industrial settings as a solvent. Toluene has been used as an ingredient in nail polish removers, due to its ability to help dissolve other substances, such as resins and plasticizers. It has also been used in the formulation of nail products to enable nail polishes, hardeners and lacquers to be applied smoothly.
Acetone
Acetone is widely used because it can easily mix with water, and evaporates quickly in the air. It is a primary ingredient in many nail polish removers as it helps break down nail polish, making it easy to remove with a cotton swab or cloth.
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