Most of us grew up fishing with lead acid batteries in our boats as our fathers before us did. The new generation of anglers, however, are coming up in the age of lithium marine batteries. Yet it’s somewhat telling how little most anglers know about lithium power. They have seen the literally “inflammatory” stories of the early days of lithium power in boats and have shied away from lithium power. Or they got lithium powered batteries but don’t understand the technology so they are not using it correctly or optimizing its longevity. The lack of people that know about lithium marine batteries and how best to use them caused me to put this together.
I recently wrote an in-depth marine battery guide that covered a bunch of the best lithium batteries in the marine space this year as well as some of the more used lead acid and AGM batteries. I am a big proponent of lithium power for no other reason than the longterm clean power they provide. But I also had a ton to learn about the technology, how they are built, how to maintain them properly and what things can cause anglers issues.
So I reached out to several of the owners and engineers at 4 or 5 of the top companies and had them tell me what they’ve learned over more than a decade of building and refining the technology that is of utmost importance to the owners of these products. The only purpose of this article is to help you make your expensive purpose last as long as humanly possible and have the least amount of hassle with your investment.
Lithium batteries are made very differently than lead acid batteries. For starters their cells are all encased. So their is no acid bath to maintain at certain fluid levels or worry with burning up and drying out. The cells in the battery also have controllers called Battery Monitoring Systems (BMS) that monitor and maintain their usage. These controllers are often what varies among manufacturers with many offering Bluetooth compatibility and apps to know how your batteries are doing at all times as well as other add-on features.
Generally inside of a lithium battery there are multiple cells that make up the total voltage. So say in a 12 volt battery like a Dakota Lithium 12V 60Ah battery, you have 4 cells that are each 3.2 volts, to make a total of 12.8 volts for your battery. That’s why you often see 12.8 or 13.2 or something of that nature on your graphs instead of a flat 12 volt reading you would expect.
Manufactures like PowerHouse Lithium actually offer 16-volt batteries so they will use 4 cells with 4.2 volts each. So fully charged your battery is hitting 16.8 volts to start the morning. Some folks are afraid to run a 16-amp battery on their boat for fear it will mess up their electronics. Humminbird’s newer units are actually rated for 20 volts. Most Garmin units are rated for 18 volts, with their 86xx series actually rated for 32 volts. And finally Lowrance is rated for 17 volts. So all of the current graphs are actually rated for higher voltage and this is largely due to the fact that technologies like 360, side scan and live imaging show you more detail with a higher voltage.
Now with lithium batteries, it is important to know your system is only as good as your weakest battery, and your weakest battery is only as good as your weakest cell. It’s also important to know that you never want to deplete your battery fully as the BMS will often put them to sleep when that happens as a precaution and you have to wake them up. Some newer BMS systems have auto wake up features. But most of the time just hooking the battery to a lithium only charger, will automatically wake them up.
In the early days of lithium power, guys would hook incorrect charges to lithium batteries, overcharge them and blow them up. That hasn’t been an issue in more than a decade because the BMS systems monitor that and dedicated lithium chargers are way improved now.
I have a 36V charger from Dakota that is an 18Ah and it’s a beast of a charger. It will cycle a charge in my trolling motor batteries and have them ready to go in an hour or two. It’s crazy how fast these things charge.
Lithium battery chargers work exactly the opposite of conventional chargers. Most conventional chargers are waiting for an input from the battery of usually at least 8 volts. Whereas a lithium charger is not waiting to see the charge back. It’s on all the time. That’s why you hear stories of guys having to “jump their battery” or hooking it to another charger so that their conventional charger sees current coming in to activate.
Nowadays you can just hook your depleted lithium battery up to a dedicated lithium battery charger and it will start charging it. Lithium batteries do not have “memory” like lead acid batteries do. They can sit partially charged or fully charged for a long time with no degrade in performance. They do have a limited number of charge cycles. And that is also a place for confusion we will address later.
Before we get too far into the weeds on maintaining lithium batteries, lets cover some basics first that will help as we go further into this resource. Lester Miller, owner of MillerTech Energy spent a bunch of time going through the ins and outs of lithium power with me. MillerTech is a big player in the marine space and an even bigger player in the solar energy industry. So they have a vast knowledge and experience with lithium powers and how it’s best used, and maintained with the least amount of issues. They also offer some of the best service in the industry for customers which is another important factor to keep in mind.
The biggest confusion point for anglers comes in knowing Voltage and Amp hours and what they need to know to choose the right battery. Now a good company like MillerTech is going to work with you to figure out your system and how you fish to help pick the right battery for your boat and your fishing. They are not going to just sell you the most expensive battery.
Voltage is a measurement of overall power and amp hours are a measurement of overall run time. So say your unit or Livescope requires at least 10 Volts to operate but you want to run it all day. So you need that 12 Volt battery fully charged to even use the unit. But as you use it, it’s drawing a certain amount of amps per hour. For some small graphs it might be only 1 amp an hour. So a 50Ah battery can run that small graph for days. However if you have your live wells, two graphs, side scan transducers, lights, Power-Poles all running off that one battery well you might be drawing 10 amps an hour. Now that same battery is only going to get you through about 5 hours.
That’s what a good lithium battery provider will do. They will ask you about your system and then make a recommendation based on their best estimates with their known experience with the draw on certain items on a boat (like a trolling motor, fish finder, imaging transducers, live wells, lights, Power-Poles, and more).
Well how can you achieve more voltage or more amp hours is the next logical question. That’s where we get into the discussion of Serial virus Parallel rigging of multiple batteries.
Basically speaking in terms of lithium power, if you want to increase voltage, you run two or three batteries in series. If you want more amp hours, you run two batteries in parallel. Where a lot of confusion comes in, even among professional anglers, who have been doing this a long time, all we’ve ever had available to us was 12-volt batteries. Now with lithium batteries, you can buy a 24-volt, 36-volt and 48-volt battery if you want. And their are pros and cons to that of course.
Miller talked about one angler he worked with who could just not get their mind wrapped around wanting to run three 12-volt batteries in series to get to 36-volts instead of just running a 36-volt battery.
“BMS are better equipped to run in those voltage environments they were designed for,” Miller said. “What I couldn’t get the angler to understand is that a 36-volt battery’s BMS was built to operate at maximum efficiency in a 36-volt environment. And you have a lot more margin for error and depletion with the battery still operating fully in a 36 volt battery than you do three 12-volts running in a 36 volt system.
By that I mean, a 12-volt battery has a BMS that is optimized to run in a 12-volt environment. And there is a lot less ‘run-up’ there. If your battery has a problem with one cell. You just dropped to nine volts and your 36-volt system is now only as good as your worst battery which is now just running at 9 volts so your system just went to 27 volts. If that battery goes down, your trolling motor is probably not going to work. With the 36 volt battery, you are not going to have near the issues like that. And if you run a parallel 36-volt system you can run for long days, much cleaner and with a less issue-laden 36-volt system because the system is optimized to run in a 36-volt environment.”
After speaking with Miller, I upgraded my own system from three 12-volt batteries on my trolling motor to two 36-volt batteries in parallel. I use my boat all day, and when I plug it into my 36-volt Dakota Lithium charger, I am charged usually in less than 2 hours.
Similarly, I have a Precision Power Lithium 12-volt 100Ah battery that only runs my two graphs and my Livescope. And people ask me all the time why my screens look so clear and sharp. I have a a Sea Clear Power run wired direct to cutoff switches at the battery. So I’m getting strong clean power all day. If I start fishing super long days, I may go to a parallel system to have constant power for longer days or upgrade to a battery with more voltage to see farther into the water..
Terry Brown runs a 16-volt PowerHouse Lithium battery for his graphs and has some of the cleanest screens you will ever see. Shaye Baker runs a 24-volt MillerTech battery on his trolling motor and loves the all-day power it provides.
Obviously the combination of voltage and amp hours affects the price of the batteries more amp hours and more voltage in a single battery increases the price significantly. But keep in mind you’re talking about powering your boat with these batteries for a decade. But we should delve into the longevity of lithium power along with other issues that might arise as you become a long term owner of lithium power.
Lithium power is mostly full proof from my experience with it over the last 4 years. They biggest issues come from charging in freezing environments, water getting in the batteries, letting the batteries deplete all the way and figuring out when and how much to charge them to avoid using up your charge cycles too fast. So lets tackle all of these here and add some engineering wisdom to some of the myths and opinions that I have seen circulating out there that just are not right.
You’ve probably seen the posts or heard people say to never charge your lithium battery in freezing temperatures. That’s actually not bad advice but probably not for the reasons you think. The cells do have liquid in them and that can freeze. But the issue is the build up of water through condensation. Water is maybe the worst thing for a lithium battery cell.
The issue happens when charging a frozen or very cold battery causes the battery to warm up rapidly as it takes the charge from the charger. The rapid warm up of a cold battery causes it to build up condensation inside and that is the problem. It’s not that charging a frozen battery hurts it. It’s the fact that the cold hot cold hot cycle of charging and cold elements causes condensation to form. And that’s a very bad thing.
Miller recommends taking the batteries inside in the winter and charging them. Or keeping the boat in a warmer (non-freezing) storage area and not charging in the coldest environments. PowerHouse Lithium, actually offers the ability to charge down to 23 degrees because of the internal build in their batteries but even they recommend not charging much in the coldest environments as repeated charging at sub-freezing temperatures can reduce the cell life longevity.
Water causes the biggest issues in lithium batteries. Water causes a volatile reaction when it mixes with lithium called effervescence. It causes hydrogen gas to release and the reaction is thermogenic so it causes a lot of excess heat. That’s why the top lithium marine battery makers create IP6 or IP7 rated waterproof batteries to keep 100% of the water out of the batteries. Not only to prevent the reaction but to prevent corrosion, short circuits to the BMS and increased resistance and electrolyte leakage from the cells.
Creating safe batteries is priority number one for most of the manufacturers we talked with. While there are still some in the insurance world who wish to ban lithium power on watercraft, the risks have thus far been mitigated and for the most part eliminated by today’s highly evolved lithium battery options.
Running a lithium battery down to zero is also a bad thing. It’s not something you have to worry about as much now with today’s much more refined lithium marine batteries because the BMS sets a cutoff voltage and puts the battery to sleep (i.e. shuts down your system) to prevent it from ever getting too low. Not to get too technical on what happens when a lithium battery full discharges, but basically there is a chemical breakdown that occurs and the battery life of the battery is reduced. So your 10 year battery won’t last 10 years if it were to discharge fully.
While the sleep thing can be a nuisance, it’s fairly simple to avoid and we’ll discuss that in the final section.
So there are a lot of terms that float around when talking about lithium power. Things like State of Charge and Depth of Charge matter when talking about charge cycles and life span of a battery.
So originally, the thinking was a battery has a certain number of charge cycles before the reaction that happens with the electrodes and the electrolytes has run its course and depleted fully in the battery cells. So because there was a limited number of charge cycles for the battery, many folks told you not to charge your battery after every use to preserve your charge cycles and not limit the life of the lithium battery.
However there are other factors to consider here. State of charge refers to the current capacity of the battery compared to its rated capacity. So an SOC of 100% means its fully charged and an SOC of 0% means its fully discharged.
Depth of Discharge or DOD refers to the amount of discharge in the battery and this can actually be used to increase the charge cycles of a battery. If you only discharge the battery 30% and it still has an SOC of 70%, then your charge cycles go up because they are based on a full charge. So if you are only having to charge it 30% of the way back to full, that’s not a full charge cycle. So you might have 2x or 3x partial charge cycles as compared to the rate full charge cycles.
“I studied the charge cycles and DOD reference materials on the cells we use in our MillerTech batteries and found that if you charge the battery after short uses you will actually get a lot more partial charges out of the batter and your life span might actually increase,” Miller said. “This is again why spec’ing out your system correctly is so important in the beginning. If you have plenty of power and only partially discharge during the day of use, you can have batteries with a lot more partial charge cycles and your system will last longer.”
Now that you understand how lithium batteries differ from what you may have known from other batteries. It’s worth relaying some more helpful information from Dakota, MillerTech, PowerHouse Lithium and ZPro Lithium.
I have run a mix of lithium batteries in various boats. I have a travel 12-volt Dakota Lithium that I take with me when I’m going to be using other boats like I did at a fish camp this spring in Illinois. I ran a small 12-volt trolling motor. I also have two small lithium batteries that I run in my kayaks. I run a ZPRO 12-volt 50Ah and a Tracker Lithium 12 Volt 50Ah that I run in two different kayaks. I have two 36-Volt RELiON batteries that I run in parallel on my Xpress X21 Pro to power my Garmin Force. I run a Precision Lithium battery as my Electronics battery in that boat. I have a MillerTech cranking battery that I’ve tested as a starting battery but don’t use it currently because it will void my Yamaha Warranty.
I’ve also tested several others that you can see in the Best Marine Battery Guide.
So I’ve been around a lot of Lithium batteries. I’ve used a lot of chargers. I’ve ran a lot of different configurations and at first it can all seem confusing. But the crux of it is to understand your boat, your system needs and how you fish. Those all factor into how much voltage and Amp hours you need and from there you can figure out the best configurations.
To me getting that right is the best way to make sure you have batteries that last a lot of years. If you get too small a battery and you are running it nearly dead every fishing day, then that battery is not going to last as long. But if you run an adequately powered battery for your system and are charging it regularly after partial cycles, your batteries are going to last a long time.
Then take a system like the PowerHouse Lithium where their batteries are monitoring the cells and when it starts seeing one of the cells operating outside of parameters, it alerts you through the app to contact PowerHouse Lithium for support and you send them the screenshot and they make a determination if they should warranty replace the battery or not. That next level of preemptive support is unheard of with battery power in boats.
And Support is another huge piece to making sure the investment in lithium power is worth it. If you spend a lot of extra money on a large lithium battery, than you should reasonably expect a high level of support. That’s why companies like MillerTech, PowerHouse, Dakota, Precision Power and ZPRO are so well liked by pro anglers and avid fishermen alike. Because when you dial the , someone answers and can help with your problem.
So it’s definitely worth it to go with a reputable brand that has high levels of support at your disposal.
Some other simple ways to keep your batteries operating at max capacity for as long as possible would include the following:
Also understand that how you use your equipment figures into your power needs. A guy who fishes in current or grass all day will draw a lot more power a lot faster than a guy who uses the same trolling motor to put around on speed 2 or 3 fishing in relatively clear open water. The harder you run a trolling motor the more it will draw. The more graphs you have, the bigger draw you will have. So again understanding the balance between your power needs and the available battery options will allow you a lot years of worry free power.
The days of worrying about your batteries blowing up and the like are long gone if you follow these simple guidelines. The fact is lithium offers very strong, clean power for long periods of time. They offer wide ranges of options to fit nearly any system. Some of the companies like MillerTech, Dakota, PowerHouse Lithium, Precision Power and ZPRO offer high levels of personal support. That can be one of the biggest factors in having a product for 10 years. Do your research, reach out to the companies and they will help you piece together the appropriate power system for your specific boat and equipment.
How to choose the best marine batteries? It’s a common question among boat owners. Boat or marine batteries perform many vital functions, such as running the equipment onboard. Since boats can be out on the sea for days, weeks, and even months, you must be careful when choosing a marine battery – you’re going to depend on it!
A trend has emerged lately where lithium marine batteries far outperform other alternatives. However, high-capacity marine batteries can be a significant investment. So, invest in the most reliable, efficient, and cost-effective model for your boat.
This article will explore how to choose marine batteries, the factors to consider, and which battery technology performs best in each case.
Of course, every boat owner wants a battery that can supply the power they need and last for years. A marine battery, specifically designed to handle the harsh conditions of marine environments, is an excellent choice for such needs. These are built robustly to resist water, salt, and shock damage, and are more than just a power source for the boat – they are essential for the safety and convenience of the people onboard too.
For example, galley appliances like a stove or refrigerator depend on the power provided by marine batteries. The electronics we often take for granted in the marine world, such as GPS, trolling motors, windlass, depth finders, and fish locators, also require marine batteries to function. These batteries, given their ability to deliver a steady supply of power, are a lifeline to these devices. An underperforming or malfunctioning battery could mean a boat owner is left stranded in the middle of the ocean without any of the onboard appliances working – a very undesirable situation!
For more information, please visit Wirentech.
You can avoid such problems by making a wise decision and investing in the best marine battery available, instead of settling for the first one you come across. It’s an investment that ensures not only the functionality of your boat but also your peace of mind while at sea.
Marine batteries are a niche application that has specific requirements. Here are some of the factors you should consider when looking for the best option:
There are various types of marine batteries – not interchangeable – as each is designed for a specific purpose. The main applications are:
Cranking refers to starting the marine vehicle. The battery design supplies a large amount of energy in a short amount of time. In addition, it has thin plates so it can be charged easily by the boat’s alternator. Do not use a starter battery to run the appliances onboard your boat. Doing so will damage it and the appliances onboard.
A deep-cycle battery supplies a lower amount of energy but for long periods. It can power all the items on the boat. A deep-cycle battery has a significantly longer cycle life than a cranking battery and is designed to supply power for longer. Its thick plates also mean that it charges more slowly.
These are also called hybrid batteries and fulfil the role of starting and deep cycle batteries. However, they typically have a limited capacity, which makes them suitable for only small boats. Choosing a dedicated battery for each purpose, cranking or deep cycle, is always the best option for performance, capacity, and lifespan.
The battery compartment in each marine vehicle is a specific size. So, it is vital to get a battery that fits your boat. For convenience, battery sizes are organised into preassigned groups to make replacement easier. The Battery Council International (BCI) defines the groups and works with carefully selected companies to ensure consumer awareness.
It’s easy to identify the most suitable group by noting down the length (L), breadth (B), and height (H) of your battery.
Here are the different groups with the LxBxH dimensions (inches):
For more information, check our guide on what size marine battery you need for your boat.
Unlike stationary applications such as home solar panels, boats have strict weight limits. Boaters always opt for lighter equipment, and marine batteries are no exception. Check the weight limit for your boat and decide how much of that you can spare for the batteries. Fortunately, lithium batteries weigh around 30% to 50% less than conventional lead-acid versions.
Calculating the electric power required by your boat will help you choose the most suitable marine battery. The power is measured in Ampere Hours (Ah) – the number of hours it can supply a constant 1A current.
To calculate the Ampere Hours required to run your boat, determine the current (Amps) each item on your boat draws when connected to the battery. Include even small items such as light bulbs as well. You can measure the current using a multimeter or a system monitor (if your boat has one).
You can also calculate it using the formula:
Current (A) = Power (W) ÷ Voltage (V)
For example, a 12 V system powering a 12 W bulb will draw a current of 1 A (12 W ÷ 12 V). Once you know the current draw, multiply it by how many hours the equipment will be used in a day. If the bulb is used for 8 hours, its Ampere-Hour rating is 8 Ah.
Once you have the Ampere hour value for each piece of equipment, add them to get the overall Ampere-hour value.
Boats are constantly in motion due to the movement of waves in the sea or ocean. So, the battery must be built to withstand the vibrations. Additionally, marine batteries are rarely in constant use. They are typically stored for a long time, followed by intense usage for a short time. Prioritise the quality over saving money.
The lifespan of a battery is a crucial factor to consider, especially if you are planning to enjoy your boat in the long run. When comparing the lifespan, check the warranty the company offers. The warranty often indicates the minimum lifespan of a battery in any working condition.
If a battery manufacturer claims a lifespan of 10 years but provides a 2-year warranty, it’s unlikely the battery will last for 10 years. In this regard, Eco Tree Lithium is way ahead of the competition as its batteries have a long life and come with a 6-year warranty.
The ability of a marine battery to resist corrosion is vital due to the saltwater conditions in which it operates. Corroded batteries should be disposed of since corrosion can cause fires, explosions, and other hazards. It’s a good idea to keep the terminals lubricated with petroleum jelly since it is the best shield against corrosion.
Different types of batteries vary in how much maintenance they need. For example, lead acid batteries need frequent attention, which is why most boat owners avoid them. In contrast, lithium batteries require almost no attention.
If there is a possibility that the boat will operate in regions that have sub-zero temperatures, you must ensure that the battery will work in freezing conditions. Despite the many advantages of lithium batteries, they have a serious shortcoming – they don’t work well in sub-zero temperatures.
In contrast, Eco Tree Lithium LiFePO4 batteries come with a built-in BMS. The BMS, or Battery Management System, heats the battery in case the temperature gets too low, which helps in ensuring the battery can operate perfectly at any temperature.
There are two main classes of batteries: lead-acid and lithium batteries. There is an enormous difference in their respective battery chemistries. There are also many subtypes of each class. Here are some of the common marine battery types:
FLA marine batteries, or wet cell batteries, contain two electrode plates separated by a liquid acid electrolyte solution. These are the least preferred option among most boat owners. They have the lowest cycle life of all current battery technologies.
Gel batteries are one step better than flooded lead acid batteries since they replace the liquid electrolyte with an electrolytic gel. The benefit of gel is that it doesn’t spill as easily as the liquid electrolyte solution. However, the other disadvantages of flooded lead acid batteries remain.
Absorbent glass mat batteries have a glass fibre mat that absorbs the electrolytic solution. These are the most spill-proof lead acid battery option. Their lifespan is better than a flooded or gel-lead acid battery. However, it is still considerably lower than the typical usable life of lithium batteries.
Lead crystal batteries are innovative lead-based batteries designed for faster charging. Their life cycle is also higher than a conventional lead acid battery. These batteries have better safety standards than traditional flooded lead acid batteries and a better operating range.
Modern lithium battery technology has successfully eliminated all of the shortcomings of lead-acid batteries. These batteries don’t have spillable electrolytes, which makes them better than lead acid batteries by leaps and bounds. In lithium batteries, one electrode is a lithium-based compound, and the other is graphite.
There are several lithium compound options available for these batteries. This results in many different lithium battery options. Among all these different types, Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePO4 or LFP) batteries have become the most sought-after lithium batteries.
A LFP (LiFePO4) battery contains electrodes made out of Lithium Iron Phosphate and Graphite. These batteries are the most stable option among all lithium marine batteries since they do not contain toxic materials like cobalt.
Many lithium batteries have excellent depth of discharge (DoD), up to 80%. LFP batteries take it a step further with 98% to 100% depth of discharge, so you can discharge these batteries to 0% without harming them.
And these batteries provide six to ten times longer lifespans than lead acid batteries, with almost double the capacity.
Considering all the critical factors when choosing a marine battery, LFP batteries are the best option. Lithium marine batteries offer superior performance to lead acid batteries.
Among lithium batteries, LFP batteries provide the most value for money by offering better safety, longer lifespan, and other benefits such as greater charging capacity and lower weight.
If your electric boat has a lead-acid battery, it is worth upgrading to a lithium marine battery. Lithium marine batteries are more dependable and ideal for deep-cycle applications, unlike lead-acid batteries. You can still use a lead acid battery as a cranking battery for the boat.
There are several unique advantages that LiFePO4 batteries bring to the table over other alternatives.
The high energy density of lithium batteries makes it possible to provide a high-capacity battery in a smaller size. It also decreases the weight of the battery, making it ideal for marine applications.
LiFePO4 batteries provide upward of charge/discharge cycles. AGM and alternative lithium marine batteries can only provide a cycle life of to charge/discharge cycles.
The high charge and discharge cycles directly translate to a longer lifespan. LFP marine batteries for boats can easily last between ten to fifteen years. Proper care can make them last even longer.
Most batteries have a lower discharge limit, after which further discharging will negatively affect the battery life. But the discharge limit for an LFP battery is 0%, without harming it.
LFP batteries do not emit toxic gases when operating in a boat. So, there is no need to provide venting or any special requirements. In addition, LFP batteries pose no fire or explosion risk.
Companies that manufacture batteries often claim their battery as maintenance-free. In reality, no battery doesn’t require some care to maintain it in optimal condition. But LFP batteries require the least attention to maintain them operating for many years.
Many lithium batteries come with a Battery Management System (BMS) that heats the battery if the working temperature decreases too much. This makes them suitable for use even in freezing conditions.
Yes, switching to lithium marine batteries is easy. The only thing to figure out is the power capacity of the boat and the battery size. Another factor to remember is that to get all the advantages of lithium marine batteries, buy from a reputable supplier such as Eco Tree Lithium.
Because of their many benefits, people often imagine that LFP batteries are more expensive than they actually are. The cost varies based on the battery capacity you need. Check Eco Tree Lithium’s marine batteries catalogue for more details about the price and features of specific battery products.
Spending time researching before buying marine batteries can eliminate countless potential troubles down the road. Many people make the rookie mistake of going with a lead acid battery instead of a lithium-ion battery, only to have to replace it a year or so later – a waste of money, time and energy.
A lithium marine battery is always the best choice and will handle anything you throw at it (provided it is within its power capacity). A lithium battery often ends up lasting twice as long as the manufacturer claimed if you do not treat it harshly.
Here are the answers to some common questions about marine batteries:
The cranking amps of a marine battery usually fall in the range of 100 to 400 Amps. The value mainly depends on the engine that the boat uses.
Yes, a lithium battery is a safe option for boats, and LFP batteries are the safest type of battery on the market today.
The company is the world’s best Marine Lithium Battery Manufacturer supplier. We are your one-stop shop for all needs. Our staff are highly-specialized and will help you find the product you need.
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