PistolPeets said:

I enjoy doing the work, but with my busy work schedule and the fact that it's now dark as soon as I'm out of work, I only have the weekends and that's if the weather cooperates. I like doing the work by myself also. Feels more rewarding that way to me. The only downside is that I have back problems. I use the tractor loader as much as possible moving heavy rounds to the splitter then throwing splits into the loader, then driving them to the wood pile to stack at a comfortable height. If I can just get a good solution for bucking, I'd be happy and my back would be thankful. Thanks for the suggestions everyone.

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Got it. You’re facing many of the same constraints as me. I also have a bad back, but it mostly flares up when I spend too many hours at my desk, and working outside only bothers it if I’ve already irritated it with too much desk work.

I use tongs hung from a hook welded to the top of my loader bucket for moving logs around, but it’s really no way to cut, IMO. Likewise, forks on the back of the tractor are likely only practical if you have the provisions for a hydraulic top link, as non-tilting forks won’t be very useful for moving and lifting logs. Forks on the loader bucket can work, but only if you have a large and heavy tractor, they’re always going to be capacity-limited.

It’s possible you could lift one end of the log with the tongs, buck off it, and then reposition. But honestly, climbing on and off a tractor dozens of times per day is doing your back no favors, not to mention your knees. I can be on and off my tractor a hundred times some Saturdays, and I feel it in my legs and knees.

A grapple, or finding a way to chain logs to the bucket for lifting, may be your best option if your loader has sufficient lift capacity. You can always add a diverted valve to a button on your loader control or foot button (think old-school highbeam switch), so your bucket curl function can be toggled over to grapple open/close control. Just a thought.

The quickest and cheapest solution may be some grab hooks welded to your loader bucket, and some short chains. Roll the bucket onto the log, chain it, then curl and lift. Poor-man’s grapple.

Got it. You’re facing many of the same constraints as me. I also have a bad back, but it mostly flares up when I spend too many hours at my desk, and working outside only bothers it if I’ve already irritated it with too much desk work.I use tongs hung from a hook welded to the top of my loader bucket for moving logs around, but it’s really no way to cut, IMO. Likewise, forks on the back of the tractor are likely only practical if you have the provisions for a hydraulic top link, as non-tilting forks won’t be very useful for moving and lifting logs. Forks on the loader bucket can work, but only if you have a large and heavy tractor, they’re always going to be capacity-limited.It’s possible you could lift one end of the log with the tongs, buck off it, and then reposition. But honestly, climbing on and off a tractor dozens of times per day is doing your back no favors, not to mention your knees. I can be on and off my tractor a hundred times some Saturdays, and I feel it in my legs and knees.A grapple, or finding a way to chain logs to the bucket for lifting, may be your best option if your loader has sufficient lift capacity. You can always add a diverted valve to a button on your loader control or foot button (think old-school highbeam switch), so your bucket curl function can be toggled over to grapple open/close control. Just a thought.The quickest and cheapest solution may be some grab hooks welded to your loader bucket, and some short chains. Roll the bucket onto the log, chain it, then curl and lift. Poor-man’s grapple.

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What is the horsepower of the different models?

The 11G Simple Saw and the 14G Connect and Cut have about 10HP at the saw motor.

The 15G Simple Saw and the 17G Connect and Cut have about 14HP at the saw motor.

The 21G Simple Saw and the 20G Connect and Cut have about 19HP at the saw motor.

The 24G Simple Saw and the 25G Connect and Cut have about 23HP at the saw motor.

The 30G Simple Saw and the 30G Connect and Cut have about 30HP at the saw motor.

 

How big of an engine is required to run the saw pump?

This depends on the size of saw. It takes about 1.4 brake HP per GPM of flow to drive the hydraulic pump at 2000 PSI. An 11G Simple Saw System needs about 15HP to drive the pump. A 14G Connect and Cut Saw System needs about 20 HP to drive the hydraulic pump. See model information for model specific power requirements.

 

How fast will the saw cut?

This depend on the diameter of log, species of wood, how dry the wood is, how sharp the saw chain is, type and volume of bar oil, condition of the bar, and how well the log is held when sawing. Click here to watch videos to get a comparison between models.

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How fast does the motor run?

The gear type saw motors should run between 4,000 and 5,000 RPM.

 

Can I put a saw on my skid steer?

You can use a Connect and Cut system on a skid steer if properly mounted and plumbed. When you add a saw to a skid steer the auxiliary flow is at wide open throttle so when cutting you must run the engine speed correctly or the saw will malfunction.

 

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Our saws are designed to be welded down to a steel structure that is able to accept several hundred pounds of load without deflecting. If the log clamp, infeed, log and saw are not rigid the saw will not cut correctly.

 

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All the saws are built to order and will take 2 to 6 weeks to process.

 

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Does 6K Products sell saw components?

We can sell any of the components. The feed modulating valve and feed control manifold are very application specific so you must email details about the application before we can sell this product.

 

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